How to Identify Real Silver
Most "silver" in American homes is one of two very different things: solid sterling worth real money by weight, or silverplate worth almost nothing. Here’s how to tell which yours is before you sell — or get told wrong.
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Read the stamp first
Real silver stamps: STERLING, 925, 900, 800, "STER," or a lion-passant hallmark (British sterling). 925 means 92.5% silver — sterling standard.
Silverplate stamps: EP, EPNS, EPBM, "silver on copper," "quadruple plate," or maker names with "A1." Plate is a microscopic silver skin over brass or copper — decorative value only.
No stamp? Not proof either way — older and handmade pieces can be unmarked. That’s what testing is for.
Counter tests (and kitchen versions)
Magnet: silver isn’t magnetic — if it sticks hard, it isn’t silver (clasps have steel springs, so test the body).
Ice: silver conducts heat faster than almost anything — an ice cube on real silver melts noticeably fast.
Acid & XRF: the definitive tests, done free at our counter in seconds — no guessing, and the result is why our flatware and scrap silver offers hold up.
Not ready to sell? Borrow against it instead — pawn loans at 3% per month, no credit check, and your first loan is free up to $500. Renew from your phone with the MobilePawn app.
Questions we hear
- My set says "1847 Rogers Bros." Is it sterling?
- Almost always silverplate — 1847 Rogers Bros was a famous plate maker. Genuine sterling by Rogers exists but is stamped STERLING. Bring a piece in and we’ll settle it free.
- Are silver coins real silver?
- US dimes, quarters and halves from 1964 and earlier are 90% silver — yes, real money by weight. War nickels (1942–45) are 35%. Modern clad coins are not silver.
Text a photo to 857-867-6468 and get a ballpark before you come in. Or visit: 1107 Commonwealth Ave, Boston · Mon–Fri 11–6:30 · Sat 11–4:30.